Comments for Bob Easton http://www.bob-easton.com/blog Woodworking powered by Snickers and Milky Way bars Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:57:54 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Comment on There’s a Hole in my Hatchet Dear Liza Dear Liza by William Budd http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=1554&cpage=1#comment-3925 William Budd Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:57:54 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=1554#comment-3925 Bob Some of the local woods that I have tried for handles are Black Locus, Oregon Ash, and Vine Maple. The Locus will not rot but it tends to crack. I have a Locus handle in the works of a large adze and one for my neighbor's hatchet. William Eatonville WA Bob

Some of the local woods that I have tried for handles are Black Locus, Oregon Ash, and Vine Maple. The Locus will not rot but it tends to crack. I have a Locus handle in the works of a large adze and one for my neighbor’s hatchet.

William
Eatonville WA

]]> Comment on Goodell-Pratt Eggbeater by Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3785 Bob Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:09:12 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3785 Hi again Tom, As best I can tell, it appears to be an 8-32. I don't have any absolutely certain 8-32 screws on hand to test the fit, but an 8-32 tap enters about 5 turns and then starts getting snug. Looking at the screw itself, it appears to be tapered. I don't know if it was created that way, or has worn. I don't think it would be hard to replace, but then again... Hi again Tom,
As best I can tell, it appears to be an 8-32. I don’t have any absolutely certain 8-32 screws on hand to test the fit, but an 8-32 tap enters about 5 turns and then starts getting snug. Looking at the screw itself, it appears to be tapered. I don’t know if it was created that way, or has worn. I don’t think it would be hard to replace, but then again…

]]> Comment on Goodell-Pratt Eggbeater by Tom Wiarda http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3762 Tom Wiarda Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:14:19 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3762 Bob, thanks for the quick reply. I mixed up this drill with another Yankee I have. The one I am trying to restore is a 5 1/5. It looks like yours but with a nice cocobollo handle. The handle is rounded at the end and not flared out like yours. It is hollow with bit storage inside. There must be something messed up with my setscrew. The fact that it only turns 1/8 turn left or right and then binds up the wheel so it will not turn must mean it is jammed in the groove in the shaft. I'm afraid to force it too much for fear of stripping the slot. If I do get it out it may not go back in. Is it a standard thread set screw that I can replace? Thanks for your help. Tom Bob, thanks for the quick reply. I mixed up this drill with another Yankee I have. The one I am trying to restore is a 5 1/5. It looks like yours but with a nice cocobollo handle. The handle is rounded at the end and not flared out like yours. It is hollow with bit storage inside. There must be something messed up with my setscrew. The fact that it only turns 1/8 turn left or right and then binds up the wheel so it will not turn must mean it is jammed in the groove in the shaft. I’m afraid to force it too much for fear of stripping the slot. If I do get it out it may not go back in. Is it a standard thread set screw that I can replace? Thanks for your help. Tom

]]> Comment on Goodell-Pratt Eggbeater by Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3761 Bob Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:56:53 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3761 Hi Tom, It sounds to me that you're doing it right. That screw in the frame is the attachment device. When screwed in, it rides in a slot in the gear's shaft, capturing it. The screw loosens easily on my drill and when completely backed out the gear and shaft fall freely out of the frame. Perhaps your screw is "munged" in some way? The best I can suggest is "more force" up to some reasonable point. ... or leave the gear in the drill and work around it while refurbishing. If you resort to forcing, or even drilling it out, be prepared to make a new set screw. BTW, my 1926 GP catalog doesn't show a 1545. Is it one of the aluminum frame take offs of an earlier model? Good luck with it. Hi Tom,
It sounds to me that you’re doing it right. That screw in the frame is the attachment device. When screwed in, it rides in a slot in the gear’s shaft, capturing it. The screw loosens easily on my drill and when completely backed out the gear and shaft fall freely out of the frame. Perhaps your screw is “munged” in some way?

The best I can suggest is “more force” up to some reasonable point. … or leave the gear in the drill and work around it while refurbishing. If you resort to forcing, or even drilling it out, be prepared to make a new set screw.

BTW, my 1926 GP catalog doesn’t show a 1545. Is it one of the aluminum frame take offs of an earlier model?

Good luck with it.

]]> Comment on Goodell-Pratt Eggbeater by Tom Wiarda http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3752 Tom Wiarda Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:39:11 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3752 Bob, I came across your informative site while researching the restoration of a GP 1545. I have removed the main shaft,chuck and 2-speed gear assembly. Now I am trying to remove the main (red) gear wheel. I found a set screw that should be securing this gear to the body of the drill but I cannot unscrew it. It only turns about 1/4 turn and stops. If I turn it 1/4 turn to the left or the right the gear wheel locks up and will barely turn. When it is in the center of this quarter turn the wheel spins freely. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some trick to removing the main gear wheel? any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom Bob, I came across your informative site while researching the restoration of a GP 1545. I have removed the main shaft,chuck and 2-speed gear assembly. Now I am trying to remove the main (red) gear wheel. I found a set screw that should be securing this gear to the body of the drill but I cannot unscrew it. It only turns about 1/4 turn and stops. If I turn it 1/4 turn to the left or the right the gear wheel locks up and will barely turn. When it is in the center of this quarter turn the wheel spins freely. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some trick to removing the main gear wheel? any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom

]]> Comment on I Picked Up a New Workbench by My Workbench Design – The British Are Coming « Carl's Woodworking http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=193&cpage=1#comment-3580 My Workbench Design – The British Are Coming « Carl's Woodworking Tue, 31 Aug 2010 17:30:51 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=193#comment-3580 [...] Easton built his bench 12′ long to accommodate long planks for his [...] [...] Easton built his bench 12′ long to accommodate long planks for his [...]

]]> Comment on About Bob Easton by Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=4&cpage=1#comment-3524 Bob Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:32:29 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=4#comment-3524 Hi John, My Nicholson bench is holding up very well. Love it! As you might see from various pictures, I don't baby it. It has loads of dents and nicks, and a good number of stains. Yet, it's staying flat and doing everything I expect. I did two things to get the holdfasts to work well. First, I added a doubler block below each holdfast location. Just glue a block to the bottom of the bench (no screws to plane into later), wait for the glue to set, then bore all the way through when making the holdfast hole. I doubled the holes for the dogs the same way. Second I abraded each holdfast with 220 grit, rubbed around the iron, for several inches from the bend. The combination gives them a lot more grip. There's a build log for the bench and related bench topics at: http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?cat=11 Thanks for stopping by. Hi John,
My Nicholson bench is holding up very well. Love it! As you might see from various pictures, I don’t baby it. It has loads of dents and nicks, and a good number of stains. Yet, it’s staying flat and doing everything I expect.

I did two things to get the holdfasts to work well. First, I added a doubler block below each holdfast location. Just glue a block to the bottom of the bench (no screws to plane into later), wait for the glue to set, then bore all the way through when making the holdfast hole. I doubled the holes for the dogs the same way. Second I abraded each holdfast with 220 grit, rubbed around the iron, for several inches from the bend. The combination gives them a lot more grip.

There’s a build log for the bench and related bench topics at: http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?cat=11

Thanks for stopping by.

]]> Comment on About Bob Easton by John Hoffman http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=4&cpage=1#comment-3521 John Hoffman Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:17:42 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=4#comment-3521 Hi Bob, Great site! Hey I noticed in one of the pics on the rifle stock you made that you are using a Nicholson bench? I have the Nicholson that Chris made and have been using it for a couple of years. I love it except it is hard to get hold fasts to work. I have not noticed the top going out of flat. How is yours holding up? thanks john Hi Bob,

Great site! Hey I noticed in one of the pics on the rifle stock you made that you are using a Nicholson bench? I have the Nicholson that Chris made and have been using it for a couple of years. I love it except it is hard to get hold fasts to work. I have not noticed the top going out of flat. How is yours holding up?

thanks
john

]]> Comment on I Picked Up a New Workbench by My Workbench Design – The British Are Coming « Carl's Workbench http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=193&cpage=1#comment-3402 My Workbench Design – The British Are Coming « Carl's Workbench Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:56:07 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=193#comment-3402 [...] Easton built his bench 12′ long to accommodate long planks for his [...] [...] Easton built his bench 12′ long to accommodate long planks for his [...]

]]> Comment on Secondary Stability by Dave http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=1519&cpage=1#comment-2697 Dave Fri, 06 Aug 2010 16:36:50 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=1519#comment-2697 Ahh, the joys of stability! I love canoing, and people often tell me they hate canoing because canoes are so tippy. Trying to explain is like trying to move a brick wall with a toothpick. But if I have my canoe handy, I'll illustrate. Standing in the middle of the canoe, I'll place my feet up on the gunnels, then move along the portage yoke until I'm standing completely on one side. Sure, water will come in, the gunnel is about an inch or two below the surface, but the canoe will not jump out from under me. Sure the canoe feels tippy when flat, but when it really matters, the canoe is surprisingly stable. Mind you, I'll never try that with most of the rental canoes available. Sure they feel less tippy, but that's because their secondary stability is lousy, and they jump out from under you when heeled. Literally, they can jump out from under you. Just my own experience. And my preference for "tippy" boats, because tippy boats are actually stable. Ahh, the joys of stability! I love canoing, and people often tell me they hate canoing because canoes are so tippy. Trying to explain is like trying to move a brick wall with a toothpick. But if I have my canoe handy, I’ll illustrate. Standing in the middle of the canoe, I’ll place my feet up on the gunnels, then move along the portage yoke until I’m standing completely on one side. Sure, water will come in, the gunnel is about an inch or two below the surface, but the canoe will not jump out from under me. Sure the canoe feels tippy when flat, but when it really matters, the canoe is surprisingly stable. Mind you, I’ll never try that with most of the rental canoes available. Sure they feel less tippy, but that’s because their secondary stability is lousy, and they jump out from under you when heeled. Literally, they can jump out from under you.

Just my own experience. And my preference for “tippy” boats, because tippy boats are actually stable.

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