Comments on: Goodell-Pratt Eggbeater http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807 Woodworking powered by Snickers and Milky Way bars Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:57:54 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 By: Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3785 Bob Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:09:12 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3785 Hi again Tom, As best I can tell, it appears to be an 8-32. I don't have any absolutely certain 8-32 screws on hand to test the fit, but an 8-32 tap enters about 5 turns and then starts getting snug. Looking at the screw itself, it appears to be tapered. I don't know if it was created that way, or has worn. I don't think it would be hard to replace, but then again... Hi again Tom,
As best I can tell, it appears to be an 8-32. I don’t have any absolutely certain 8-32 screws on hand to test the fit, but an 8-32 tap enters about 5 turns and then starts getting snug. Looking at the screw itself, it appears to be tapered. I don’t know if it was created that way, or has worn. I don’t think it would be hard to replace, but then again…

]]> By: Tom Wiarda http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3762 Tom Wiarda Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:14:19 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3762 Bob, thanks for the quick reply. I mixed up this drill with another Yankee I have. The one I am trying to restore is a 5 1/5. It looks like yours but with a nice cocobollo handle. The handle is rounded at the end and not flared out like yours. It is hollow with bit storage inside. There must be something messed up with my setscrew. The fact that it only turns 1/8 turn left or right and then binds up the wheel so it will not turn must mean it is jammed in the groove in the shaft. I'm afraid to force it too much for fear of stripping the slot. If I do get it out it may not go back in. Is it a standard thread set screw that I can replace? Thanks for your help. Tom Bob, thanks for the quick reply. I mixed up this drill with another Yankee I have. The one I am trying to restore is a 5 1/5. It looks like yours but with a nice cocobollo handle. The handle is rounded at the end and not flared out like yours. It is hollow with bit storage inside. There must be something messed up with my setscrew. The fact that it only turns 1/8 turn left or right and then binds up the wheel so it will not turn must mean it is jammed in the groove in the shaft. I’m afraid to force it too much for fear of stripping the slot. If I do get it out it may not go back in. Is it a standard thread set screw that I can replace? Thanks for your help. Tom

]]> By: Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3761 Bob Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:56:53 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3761 Hi Tom, It sounds to me that you're doing it right. That screw in the frame is the attachment device. When screwed in, it rides in a slot in the gear's shaft, capturing it. The screw loosens easily on my drill and when completely backed out the gear and shaft fall freely out of the frame. Perhaps your screw is "munged" in some way? The best I can suggest is "more force" up to some reasonable point. ... or leave the gear in the drill and work around it while refurbishing. If you resort to forcing, or even drilling it out, be prepared to make a new set screw. BTW, my 1926 GP catalog doesn't show a 1545. Is it one of the aluminum frame take offs of an earlier model? Good luck with it. Hi Tom,
It sounds to me that you’re doing it right. That screw in the frame is the attachment device. When screwed in, it rides in a slot in the gear’s shaft, capturing it. The screw loosens easily on my drill and when completely backed out the gear and shaft fall freely out of the frame. Perhaps your screw is “munged” in some way?

The best I can suggest is “more force” up to some reasonable point. … or leave the gear in the drill and work around it while refurbishing. If you resort to forcing, or even drilling it out, be prepared to make a new set screw.

BTW, my 1926 GP catalog doesn’t show a 1545. Is it one of the aluminum frame take offs of an earlier model?

Good luck with it.

]]> By: Tom Wiarda http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-3752 Tom Wiarda Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:39:11 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-3752 Bob, I came across your informative site while researching the restoration of a GP 1545. I have removed the main shaft,chuck and 2-speed gear assembly. Now I am trying to remove the main (red) gear wheel. I found a set screw that should be securing this gear to the body of the drill but I cannot unscrew it. It only turns about 1/4 turn and stops. If I turn it 1/4 turn to the left or the right the gear wheel locks up and will barely turn. When it is in the center of this quarter turn the wheel spins freely. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some trick to removing the main gear wheel? any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom Bob, I came across your informative site while researching the restoration of a GP 1545. I have removed the main shaft,chuck and 2-speed gear assembly. Now I am trying to remove the main (red) gear wheel. I found a set screw that should be securing this gear to the body of the drill but I cannot unscrew it. It only turns about 1/4 turn and stops. If I turn it 1/4 turn to the left or the right the gear wheel locks up and will barely turn. When it is in the center of this quarter turn the wheel spins freely. Do you have any idea what I am doing wrong? Is there some trick to removing the main gear wheel? any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom

]]> By: Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-1004 Bob Sat, 29 May 2010 19:47:39 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-1004 Richard, I don't know the wire gauge. That was a long time ago and I didn't write it down. I used a digital caliper to measure one of the existing springs and then selected a steel guitar string that was the closest, within a few ten-thousandths. The best I can suggest is to try the same procedure yourself. Even without a digital caliper, it's pretty easy to compare these small wire sizes with other (steel) wire you might find around the house or at the hobby shop. Interesting notes you have on earlier versions. I imagine one could invest a lot of time in following all the variations for some of these tools. Thanks! Richard,
I don’t know the wire gauge. That was a long time ago and I didn’t write it down. I used a digital caliper to measure one of the existing springs and then selected a steel guitar string that was the closest, within a few ten-thousandths. The best I can suggest is to try the same procedure yourself. Even without a digital caliper, it’s pretty easy to compare these small wire sizes with other (steel) wire you might find around the house or at the hobby shop.

Interesting notes you have on earlier versions. I imagine one could invest a lot of time in following all the variations for some of these tools. Thanks!

]]> By: Richard http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-1003 Richard Sat, 29 May 2010 18:44:33 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-1003 Hi again Bob, I was interested in what Adrian and Doug had to say about thier respective 5-1/2's not having ball bearings. I have run into one of these myself that I restored about 6 months ago. I beleive it is a VERY EARLY production piece, either from 1896 or 1897. It has NO ball bearings, the shaft is simply riding in the headspacer itself. This version also has a BRASS speed adjustment knob with "F" and "S" for fast and slow instead of spelling them out. The end of the shaft that rides in the rear of the frame is holed and there is a very small "nipple" in the receiver for this to ride in. These seem to be quite rare....I've only seen this one (which I still have). I've also seen a couple of stupid "single speed" versions of the 5-1/2, where the read gear (which should be low speed) is replaced by a very rough gear-less spacer. These were short-lived because GP soon found nobody wanted these. Why pay extra for that ($5.80 in 1921) when you could just buy a single speed drill for a couple of bucks? Just some interesting "history". Thanks! Hi again Bob,

I was interested in what Adrian and Doug had to say about thier respective 5-1/2′s not having ball bearings. I have run into one of these myself that I restored about 6 months ago. I beleive it is a VERY EARLY production piece, either from 1896 or 1897. It has NO ball bearings, the shaft is simply riding in the headspacer itself. This version also has a BRASS speed adjustment knob with “F” and “S” for fast and slow instead of spelling them out. The end of the shaft that rides in the rear of the frame is holed and there is a very small “nipple” in the receiver for this to ride in. These seem to be quite rare….I’ve only seen this one (which I still have). I’ve also seen a couple of stupid “single speed” versions of the 5-1/2, where the read gear (which should be low speed) is replaced by a very rough gear-less spacer. These were short-lived because GP soon found nobody wanted these. Why pay extra for that ($5.80 in 1921) when you could just buy a single speed drill for a couple of bucks? Just some interesting “history”.

Thanks!

]]> By: Richard http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-1002 Richard Sat, 29 May 2010 18:36:12 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-1002 Hi Bob, What gauge wire did you use? Thanks! Hi Bob,

What gauge wire did you use?

Thanks!

]]> By: Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-840 Bob Fri, 14 May 2010 16:53:30 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-840 Richard, Sure. Using a lathe would making spring winding very easy. Just chuck anything about 1/16" into a 3 jaw chuck. (I used a 1/16 " drill bit. Even a finishing brad would work.) Put a 90 degree bend a couple of inches from the end of that guitar string. Then tuck that short tail between a couple of chuck jaws. Wind the new spring by hand turning the spindle. No need for power. It'll work great. Enjoy! Richard,
Sure. Using a lathe would making spring winding very easy. Just chuck anything about 1/16″ into a 3 jaw chuck. (I used a 1/16 ” drill bit. Even a finishing brad would work.) Put a 90 degree bend a couple of inches from the end of that guitar string. Then tuck that short tail between a couple of chuck jaws. Wind the new spring by hand turning the spindle. No need for power. It’ll work great.

Enjoy!

]]> By: Richard http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-838 Richard Fri, 14 May 2010 13:27:55 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-838 Like you, I've gotten pretty good at restoring these GP eggbeaters. One issue I continue to have is replacement chuck springs. There must be a way to wind these on a lathe with a small enough mandrel. I play guitar, so I have a ready supply of used strings. Have you ever heard of someone winding new springs like this? Like you, I’ve gotten pretty good at restoring these GP eggbeaters. One issue I continue to have is replacement chuck springs. There must be a way to wind these on a lathe with a small enough mandrel. I play guitar, so I have a ready supply of used strings. Have you ever heard of someone winding new springs like this?

]]> By: Bob http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807&cpage=1#comment-530 Bob Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:57:41 +0000 http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=807#comment-530 Stephen, My hunch is that the pin that holds the shifter knob might be tapered. I've seen tapered pins used like this several times. Gentle filing on each end to remove any peening might reveal which end is smaller / larger. Then, punch out toward the larger end. Yes, I did remove the handle of this drill. However, unlike many it is not pinned or peened. The ratchet mechanism is integrated into the handle hub. It works by wedging one of two movable wedges against a central splined hub, one wedge for each direction. As such, the handle has a splined center and is a rather loose fit over the ratchet mechanism and is held on by the screw through the ratchet direction selector plate. This is the only eggbeater I've refurbished, so I can't help much with the handle on yours. Keep havin' fun! Stephen,
My hunch is that the pin that holds the shifter knob might be tapered. I’ve seen tapered pins used like this several times. Gentle filing on each end to remove any peening might reveal which end is smaller / larger. Then, punch out toward the larger end.

Yes, I did remove the handle of this drill. However, unlike many it is not pinned or peened. The ratchet mechanism is integrated into the handle hub. It works by wedging one of two movable wedges against a central splined hub, one wedge for each direction. As such, the handle has a splined center and is a rather loose fit over the ratchet mechanism and is held on by the screw through the ratchet direction selector plate.

This is the only eggbeater I’ve refurbished, so I can’t help much with the handle on yours.

Keep havin’ fun!

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