A young scout was awarded his third rank a few evenings ago, the Wolf. The occassion needed a new neckerchief slide. Carved in basswood. Finished with acrylic colors topped with satin poly.
Young lad, enjoy being a wolf. Learn well.
We do some things just because they’re fun … or maybe a challenge.
Ah-ha! Roy made a really interesting stand that’s originally attributed to Roubo. I call it a parlor trick because it is made from a single piece of wood. Roy made his from Walnut, probably near an inch thick. For fun, and challenge, I made mine from a scrap of boat lumber left over from Eva Won. It is cedar and rough resawed to about 1/2 inch thick. Can it be resawed thinner and tortured into becoming one of these bookstands?
The trick is making a barrel hinge and resawing right up to the edge of the hinge. Roy shows you how in this episode of The Woodwright Shop. Other than lumber and scale, mine isn’t much different … other than using a utility saw for resawing (hah!). Go watch Roy. I’ll let a few pictures tell the rest of the story.
There are very few woodcarvers teaching classical woodcarving in the U.S. Mary May is one of those few, and is also distinguished by being both a well experienced artisan, as well as a person with a wonderful teaching style.
Just because one is very skilled doesn’t mean they can teach well. Case in point was an experience with a trap shooter who has over half a million registered targets in his competition history. Yes, he can hit well, but when instructing others he barks out things like, “Well, you hit that one, but you didn’t deserve it.” or “Why did you do it like THAT!?”
Mary is just the opposite. Her skill is shown in short demonstrations that teach a particular technique. Then she sends people to their work and coaches them appropriately as they practice and absorb the technique. Easy going, enjoyable and effective!
The weekend occasion was a “Beginners Woodcarving” class with Mary at Kelly Mehler’s fine school in Berea, Kentucky. Mary started us off with a “donut” exercise that quickly teaches one to sense and accommodate grain direction. Next was one of her favorites, the Camellia flower. After those, we moved to an acanthus leaf, linenfold, and a convex shell. The shell is moving well beyond “beginner” territory. In short, we covered a lot more than I expected. (No, I don’t have pictures of my own work … because not a single one of the projects was carried to completion, either in that class or yet.)
There’s nothing better than someone exceeding your expectations.
More info and pictures at Mary’s blog.
Many of the people writing on this topic talk often about protecting limbs, fingers and eyes. All are critically important. Yet, I rarely see mention of hearing protection. Virtually all of my shop work is with hand tools. Very rarely is there a screaming demon to interrupt the peaceful solitude of quiet music … or the constant ringing in my ears.*
Yet, I know that many of you often use saws, routers, and sanders for some aspect of your work. How many times do you just flip them on without thinking about hearing protection? No protection leads to constant tinnitus.
There are all sorts of hearing protection available and at a very wide range of price points. Most of the time that I write about this, it is for shooting sports where the noise is different, yet the need for protection is still very important. One of the prime decision points of most people is comfort. For a few minutes of sawing, comfort may not be an issue, but for hours of noisy work, it certainly is.
So, I’ve collected a lot of choices that some will find helpful:
Let’s look at some numbers. All of these devices offer different levels of protection. Most devices have a Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) that tells in decibels how much noise they block. The more the better.
In the list below, BE AWARE THAT 6DB IS AN EFFECTIVE DOUBLING OF SOUND VOLUME.
In other words… 30 db reduction is TWICE as much as 24 db.
20 db – custom molded “musicians’ plugs” (silicone) – $200
21 db – low end non-electronic muffs muffs – $15-$30
22-24 db – low end electronic muffs – $20-$60 – example: Peltor 7 Passive – 24db – $25-$30
24 db – polymer plugs – SureFire EarPro EP-6 – $15
24-26 db – better electronic muffs – $150-400 – example: Peltor 7 electronic – 24db – $280
25 db – Electronic custom molded ESP (silicone) plugs ($2000-2500) – NRR not published on the website, I got the number via mail from them.
25 db – E.A.R Insta-Mold silicon plugs (at 125 hz – the frequency closest to a shotgun blast) ($1000)
26 db – premium non-electronic muffs (Pro Ears Ultra 26) – about $40
26 db – mix it yourself custom molded silicon plugs – $7 – notorious for very poor results
26 db – SensGard ZEN, model 26, $25 – neither plugs nor muffs; dampens sound in air chambers
29-30 db – foam earplugs PROPERLY INSERTED – 50 cents/pair – see THIS VIDEO for proper insertion: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPNPZJingZA
31 db – SensGard ZEN, model 31, $33 – neither plugs nor muffs; dampens sound in air chambers
31 db – non-electronic muff – Browning Buckmark Hearing Protector – $20 (looks like a very good deal)
32 db – E.A.R. yellow foam plugs – 21 cents/pair in bulk – again: PROPERLY INSERTED, see the video at the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPNPZJingZA
Personally, I want as much hearing protection as possible. For a noisy shop, I suggest looking for 25db or better, typically simple muffs or the Zen SensGards. For shotgun shooting sports, I find foam plugs superb … but they are slower it insert than just putting on muffs. For indoor pistol ranges, both plugs and “cans” (muffs).
* The reason my ears ring … and why you should use more ear protection than you think you need.
It takes only about 10 minutes to change a tire on a KC-135 Stratotanker, less if you arrive to find its engines already running, idled down to minimums, and a crew eager to be on its way. (Killing the engines means another pre-flight and probably filing a new flight plan.) The crew chief jacked the bogie while I set about changing the tire. I had hearing protection, but not enough, plugs, no cans. I was changing the front starboard tire and wheel on the starboard bogie, with engine #3 about 5 feet directly behind me. Remove the safety wire from the hubcap screws â€“ remove the screws and hubcap â€“ remove the safety wire from the nuts of two bolts that lock the large wheel hub nut from turning â€“ remove the lock bolts and their nuts â€“ remove the hub nut â€“ ensure the flight crew has the disc brakes locked â€“ wiggle the wheel and outer bearing off the axle â€“ pull off the inner bearing â€“ push on a freshly cleaned and repacked inner bearing â€“ wiggle the new (about 200 pound) wheel on, aligning brake keys with the notches in the brake rotors â€“ push on a freshly cleaned and repacked outer bearing – install and tighten the hub nut, aligning castellations with lock bolt holes â€“ reinstall the locking bolts and their nuts â€“ tie the nuts with safety wire so they donâ€™t loosen â€“ reinstall the hubcap and tighten its screws â€“ tie down the hubcap screws with safety wire â€“ drop the jack â€“ gather up the tools, old wheel and other parts â€“ get out of the way. 8 minutes 20 seconds! Forty some years later I benefit from the marvels of ultra miniature electronics which compensate for much of the hearing loss. Yet, I can assure you from my ever present tinitus that engine #3 was idling at 8520 rpm and engine #4 was idling at 8780. No more loud machines for me!