{"id":5985,"date":"2018-02-26T04:53:39","date_gmt":"2018-02-26T09:53:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bob-easton.com\/blog\/?p=5985"},"modified":"2021-09-19T18:52:16","modified_gmt":"2021-09-19T22:52:16","slug":"regulator-clock-case-dry-fitted","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bob-easton.com\/blog\/regulator-clock-case-dry-fitted\/","title":{"rendered":"Regulator Clock – Case Dry Fitted"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Slow, steady, and not too much is the current shop time formula. Yet “poco a poco” progress is sneaking along.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Case joinery for this clock is, to my mind, a bit weak. The side frames are connected by mortise and tenon to the top and bottom plates. That’s normal, but these tenons are on the minimal side. Yes, they measure up to the usual 1\/3 of available stock dimensions, but when one looks at the weight involved, I’m skeptical that they are robust enough. The base weight of the case, the added moldings, the glass, and a very expensive brass mechanism seems a lot to hang on some 1\/4 inch by 1\/4 inch tenons, especially if one depends on glue alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These tenons result in nice snug, “self supporting” fits as long as “self” is one of the top or bottom plates alone. I’m adding two screws as insurance to each of the four joins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The backboard fits nicely into rebates in the side frames and top and bottom plates. Three screws into each of the top and bottom plates are the main attachment of the back which supports that expensive brass mechanism. Two screws, one midway in each side, add additional support. Those side screws will be in elongated holes to allow for seasonal wood movement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Here’s the dry fitted case with the door lying loosely in place. Next, fitting some very nice hinges. …
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Gratitude:<\/a> No major wood movement high jinks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Other articles in this series\u2026<\/h2>\n\n\n\n