{"id":7330,"date":"2020-07-23T05:58:46","date_gmt":"2020-07-23T09:58:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bob-easton.com\/blog\/?p=7330"},"modified":"2021-09-19T18:52:16","modified_gmt":"2021-09-19T22:52:16","slug":"new-greenland-paddle-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bob-easton.com\/blog\/new-greenland-paddle-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"New Greenland Paddle – part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Sturdier tips. My earlier Greenland paddles have held up OK, with normal dents and dings. Yet, the tips have taken a beating. Evan suggested hardwood tips for this one. That’s what that darker lumber pictured in part 1<\/a> is for. It is one of the Mora <\/a>family, several times heavier than cedar, hard and dense. My goal is to use a little bit at each tip, just enough for protection, not enough to be too heavy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My foremost concern is how to keep the tips attached. Thin pieces don’t leave much opportunity for advanced joinery (T&G, biscuits, etc.) and end-grain to end-grain gluing is always a weak option. Let’s improve the amount of surface area for glue by using a substantial dovetail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First, the plank thickness has to be reduced. Time for resawing<\/a>. Start with the kerfing plane<\/a>, finish with a rip saw. Then, layout the parts and cut the dovetails. Zowie, that wood is hard!<\/p>\n\n\n\n