• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer

Bob Easton

Chocolate powered woodworking

  • Home
  • Grinling Gibbons Tour

Hand tools

New Bow Saw

December 6, 2008 by Bob Easton 5 Comments

A few weeks ago, I cursed a wretched coping saw as I cut the oval hatches in the Fiddlehead’s bulkheads. A week or so later, I needed a turning saw to cut the long gradual curves on the Fiddlehead’s bottom, and actually hacked together a temporary saw from a hacksaw frame and part of a used bandsaw blade. It worked, but it’s a good thing the curved line wasn’t too far from the edge of the board.

Those incidents led me to make a bow saw. Of the available designs, I found the Gramercy Tools design most appealing. The design is classic, yet uses a moderm pair of brass pins to hold the blade. The pins can accommodate blades that already have pins pressed in, or blades that have open eyelets. The Gramercy bow saw is available from Tools for Working Wood as a completed saw for $139.95, or as individual parts. Gramercy offers a very complete set of drawings for people who want to make their own. I chose to buy only the pins and blades and make all the wooden parts myself. While they use Hickory, I used Oak because that’s what I had on hand.

Features that appealed to me are: the classic style, the curved faces of the mortise joints on the stretcher (fun cutting them, allows for slightly varying blade lengths), and the subtle sculpting of the various curves and edges, including a finger rest near the base of the cheeks.

The pins are glued into the handles with epoxy. I used a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil for finish. It still needs a good cord for tensioning. The fuzzy hemp is temporary, enough to try it out. The blade is 12 inches long. This blade is the coarsest of a set of three, 10 tpi.

That little squiggly block of wood represents the first cut, an S shape about an inch long, through 4/4 cedar. The saw ends up being very light and pleasing to use. While I thought the handle a bit small when I was turning it, I find that it falls very naturally into the hand. Gramercy did a fine job on the design. This one is a keeper!

For Luke and Dan: Yes, I used electrons while building this saw. I used a bandsaw to resaw the oak to useful dimensions, and I used an ancient miniature lathe to turn the handle, toe, and toggle. The lathe was only moderately easier than hacking them out with a pocket knife. Oh yes, there are also electric lights in the shop. The remainder of the making used hand tools, rasps and the eggbeater drill.

So now, we’ll have many fewer colorful words while sawing.

Update (12/13): Those brass pins from Gramercy are so smooth that the saw frame wants to rotate around them a little too easily. More tension? The blade already sings a high C when plinked. A small sliver of 320 grit sandpaper inserted along with the pin provides exactly the right friction. For long time coping saw users, this saw is a great upgrade. Break the habit of taking short stokes, Use the entire length of the blade and be amazed at how easily the saw works.

Filed Under: Hand tools, Shopmade

Aerobic

September 2, 2008 by Bob Easton 4 Comments


Filed Under: Boatbuilding, Eva Won, Fiddlehead, Hand tools

A New Plane

August 30, 2008 by Bob Easton Leave a Comment

“Jointing” is preparing a flat surface over a long area, usually in preparation for joining two boards together.Stanley number 7 jointer plane The Stanley number 7 “jointer” plane has a very long body and nearly 8 pounds of heft. Here again, there are electric tools for such work. As with planers, they embody rapidly rotating knives that pulverize wood into very fine dust. My “new” Stanley number 7, makes long thin shavings instead. It’s length is key to how it works. It is shown here with two other planes to give a size comparison. Left to right, the planes are: number 5 jack plane, number 7 jointer plane, and number 40 scrub plane.

This one came from Jon Zimmer, a tool trader in Portland Oregon. Jon is one of the few who specialize in old tools and has a grading system that identifies the quality of the tools he sells. He is accurate, easy to deal with and has a great reputation. His tools are exactly as he describes them. A few other folks who also have great reputations are Patrick Leach, Sandy Moss, and Bob Kaune. All of these people know the tools, have accurate grading systems and can be trusted. While one might find occasional lower prices on eBay, the quality there varies and many of the people selling old tools are not experts like the folks just mentioned. On eBay “buyer beware.”

This plane dates to between 1933 and 1941. It has seen a lot of good use, but no visible abuse. It did have a goodly collection of wood dust in the corners and crevices. Basic cleaning took about an hour. Another hour of sharpening brought the iron to perfection.

My use for this plane is for jointing edges. It’s a really good thing to have certain parts of a boat fit together very well. For example, the bottom of the Fiddlehead is three long boards joined edge to edge. All that holds them together is glue … and a good fit. There are no other fasteners holding those boards together.

clamp a block to the planemake square edgesOf course, making square edges is usually desireable. So, how does one do that when running a hand plane along the edge of a board? With a fence. And there are fences for these planes, but they are rare and expensive.  I have devised an alternative, based on a method we used at the Wooden Boat School.  Clamp a block of wood (squared of course) to the nose of the plane and use it as a fence. Steady as you go and it works very well.

Filed Under: Hand tools, Woodworking

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Page 1
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 12
  • Page 13
  • Page 14
  • Page 15
  • Go to Next Page »

Primary Sidebar

Footer

Recent Posts

  • New Frame Saw / Scroll Saw
  • Lamppost Sign
  • Goodbye PayPal – Goodbye Bob’s eBooks
  • Anarchist’s Workbench is Done
  • Why we keep offcuts…

Categories

  • About
  • Artwork
  • Boatbuilding
  • Boating
  • bowl carving
  • Boxmaking
  • Clocks
  • Drawings
  • eBook
  • etude
  • Eva Too
  • Eva Won
  • Fiddlehead
  • Fiddlehead model
  • Flying
  • frame saw
  • gilding
  • green woodworking
  • Grinling Gibbons
  • Guns
  • Hand tools
  • Humor
  • kerfing plane
  • Lettercarving
  • Mill Creek 13
  • Model building
  • Power tools
  • Rant
  • resawing
  • scroll saw
  • Shopmade
  • sign painting
  • Stonework
  • Swimming
  • Technology
  • The Wall
  • treadle lathe
  • Uncategorized
  • VSD
  • Woodcarving
  • Woodturning
  • Woodworking
  • workbench

Other stuff

  • About
  • Contact
  • Privacy Policy

Copyright ©2024 · Bob Easton · All Rights Reserved