Bob Easton

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Woodworking

New Greenland Paddle – part 3

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The last phase of shaping the paddle is to remove everything that isn’t paddle shaped. Pare the loom, center handle, down to a round shape. Shape the oar portions, starting with nearly a diamond near the center, tapering evenly to thin softly arched tips. Knock off all the sharp edges so the entire length of the paddle will be easy on the hands.

Primary tools for this work are a simple ancient Stanley spoke shave and a collection of sharp steel card scrapers. (How to sharpen a scraper.)

  • photo of just beginning to shape a paddle
  • photo of one paddle nearly done

Update July 31:

After branding, I applied the first of 4 coats of pure tung oil. As with many natural oils, caution about spontaneous combustion applies.

  • photo of "Easton" branded paddle tip
  • Oscar's only ostrich oiled an orange owl today
    Oscar’s only ostrich oiled an orange owl today.
photo ot paddle tip after 4 coats of tung oil

Same paddle tip after 4 coats of tung oil.

  • photo showing the length of the paddle
    Extra long for use on a wide kayak
  • photo of the paddle out for a kayak ride
    Out for a sunset ride on a Minnesota lake
click images for larger versions

New Greenland Paddle – part 2

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Sturdier tips. My earlier Greenland paddles have held up OK, with normal dents and dings. Yet, the tips have taken a beating. Evan suggested hardwood tips for this one. That’s what that darker lumber pictured in part 1 is for. It is one of the Mora family, several times heavier than cedar, hard and dense. My goal is to use a little bit at each tip, just enough for protection, not enough to be too heavy.

My foremost concern is how to keep the tips attached. Thin pieces don’t leave much opportunity for advanced joinery (T&G, biscuits, etc.) and end-grain to end-grain gluing is always a weak option. Let’s improve the amount of surface area for glue by using a substantial dovetail.

First, the plank thickness has to be reduced. Time for resawing. Start with the kerfing plane, finish with a rip saw. Then, layout the parts and cut the dovetails. Zowie, that wood is hard!

  • photo of kerfing a board before resawing
  • photo of resawn board and pattern for cutting the tips
  • photo of two tips with dovetails cut
  • photo of shaped tips and a bow saw

As always, that bow saw, which weighs only 12.3 ounces easily cut the outer shape. For final smoothing, I used a sanding disc on the treadle lathe.

Next: attach the tips with high grade epoxy. And while the epoxy sets, clean the shop. Two partial paddles sit on the horses (one is a shorter “storm paddle”) while all the stuff that’s not paddle litters the floor. My habit is to let epoxy cure 20-24 hours no matter what it says on the container. Then, test by rough shaping with sharp tools. Knowing the tips won’t break off, I’ll get to the finish shaping the rest of the paddle shortly.

  • photo of pig pile of shavings and 2 partially done paddles
  • photo of tip - cured and rough shaped

New Greenland Paddle – part 1

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Evan has asked about another Greenland paddle, this time longer and with slightly different dimensions. So, a trip over to Condon Lumber brought home a couple of pieces of lumber. Condon keeps a large stack of cedar at one end of their yard, fully exposed to our wonderful 4 season weather. A yard worker there opened the stack with a fork lift, helping me find a suitable flitch, 8/4s thick, about 8 inches wide, 12 feet long.

  • photo of two boards leaning on my ruck
  • photo of long board and frame saw
  • photo of frame saw in middle of a cut

Atlantic White Cedar and some sort of very heavy, dense, dark wood (Mora?). Rough cuts defined by red chalk lines, the magic 12 foot long straight edge. Quick rip with my favorite 4 TPI frame saw.

Update: July 14

  • photo after cutting 2 boards
  • photo of 2 boards cut to rough length
  • photo of gap under bowed board

Two solid 2x4s (real 2″, real 4″), then cut to approximate length. It’s always interesting to see how wood moves. After cutting, one piece developed a slight bow: 1/8 ” over a 7 foot length. The other piece did not. We’ll see what they look like tomorrow. 3-4 days in the shop after years sitting outside in a stack.

Update: July 15

  • photo realignment for grain orientation
  • photo - using drawknife

The ideal grain orientation for almost any project is “vertical.” None of the lumber available provided a way to get there directly. (i.e. no pieces 3+ inches thick, none from the absolute center of the tree) So, let’s tilt our object within the board to get closer.

The desired finished dimensions are ~ near / within ~ 1.5 inches by 3.25 inches. Layout some more guide lines and start reducing. The drawknife makes for quick waste removal.

…and that 12 foot long workbench makes the work easier.

P.S. that little bow noted earlier isn’t going to make a difference. Just a curious observation.

end view of refined board

Update: July 17

After grain reorientation, I have a board that is 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches, ready for final layout. The angled edges won’t matter, as they were always going to be cut away.

Update: July 21

Moving slowly … cautious of wood movement as bulk of waste is removed. Best news: no twist!

  • photo of a greenland paddle - roughed out
  • photo of a greenland paddle tip - roughed out