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3 More Walking Eagles

January 30, 2021 by Bob Easton 4 Comments

photo of 3 walking canes

A few years ago, I made one of these in walnut. Last year, another in cherry for one of my brothers. Now, three more in cherry, two for my other brothers and one for me. We’re all aging and gratefully still fully mobile. The time might come when one of these is handy. As I learned 6 decades ago as a Boy Scout: “Be prepared.”

I have already adjusted mine (far right) for the height I find comfortable. My brothers are about as tall as me; I’ll let them adjust their own. Here’s a useful guide for getting the right length cane.

Today’s temperature in the Peoples Republic of New York started at 15° Fahrenheit, leaving the shop at 36°. My cold tolerance in the shop bottoms out at about 50°. During the recent cold spell, I’ve deferred heavy work (such as hacking out bowls) abandoned the shop, and moved my carving bench and carving tools into a heated room, ideal for the detail carving of these eagles.

detail photo of 3 walking canes

As with earlier walking canes, these are built with a foxed tenon and finished with several coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil gun stock finish.

Filed Under: Woodcarving, Woodworking

New Greenland Paddle – part 3

July 29, 2020 by Bob Easton Leave a Comment

The last phase of shaping the paddle is to remove everything that isn’t paddle shaped. Pare the loom, center handle, down to a round shape. Shape the oar portions, starting with nearly a diamond near the center, tapering evenly to thin softly arched tips. Knock off all the sharp edges so the entire length of the paddle will be easy on the hands.

Primary tools for this work are a simple ancient Stanley spoke shave and a collection of sharp steel card scrapers. (How to sharpen a scraper.)

  • photo of just beginning to shape a paddle
  • photo of one paddle nearly done

Update July 31:

After branding, I applied the first of 4 coats of pure tung oil. As with many natural oils, caution about spontaneous combustion applies.

  • photo of "Easton" branded paddle tip
  • Oscar's only ostrich oiled an orange owl today
    Oscar’s only ostrich oiled an orange owl today.
photo ot paddle tip after 4 coats of tung oil

Same paddle tip after 4 coats of tung oil.

  • photo showing the length of the paddle
    Extra long for use on a wide kayak
  • photo of the paddle out for a kayak ride
    Out for a sunset ride on a Minnesota lake
click images for larger versions

Filed Under: Boating, Woodworking

New Greenland Paddle – part 2

July 23, 2020 by Bob Easton Leave a Comment

Sturdier tips. My earlier Greenland paddles have held up OK, with normal dents and dings. Yet, the tips have taken a beating. Evan suggested hardwood tips for this one. That’s what that darker lumber pictured in part 1 is for. It is one of the Mora family, several times heavier than cedar, hard and dense. My goal is to use a little bit at each tip, just enough for protection, not enough to be too heavy.

My foremost concern is how to keep the tips attached. Thin pieces don’t leave much opportunity for advanced joinery (T&G, biscuits, etc.) and end-grain to end-grain gluing is always a weak option. Let’s improve the amount of surface area for glue by using a substantial dovetail.

First, the plank thickness has to be reduced. Time for resawing. Start with the kerfing plane, finish with a rip saw. Then, layout the parts and cut the dovetails. Zowie, that wood is hard!

  • photo of kerfing a board before resawing
  • photo of resawn board and pattern for cutting the tips
  • photo of two tips with dovetails cut
  • photo of shaped tips and a bow saw

As always, that bow saw, which weighs only 12.3 ounces easily cut the outer shape. For final smoothing, I used a sanding disc on the treadle lathe.

Next: attach the tips with high grade epoxy. And while the epoxy sets, clean the shop. Two partial paddles sit on the horses (one is a shorter “storm paddle”) while all the stuff that’s not paddle litters the floor. My habit is to let epoxy cure 20-24 hours no matter what it says on the container. Then, test by rough shaping with sharp tools. Knowing the tips won’t break off, I’ll get to the finish shaping the rest of the paddle shortly.

  • photo of pig pile of shavings and 2 partially done paddles
  • photo of tip - cured and rough shaped

Filed Under: Boating, kerfing plane, resawing, Woodworking

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