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Regulator Clock – Scratching the frames

March 18, 2018 by Bob Easton Leave a Comment

Scratching? OK. Carving with a “scratch stock.”

photo of scratch stock and two cutters

Old saw blades should never go to waste. Little pieces of them can be cut for use in a scratch stock. A scratch stock is simply a device to hold a cutter. I made this one long ago. It was handy for decorating the edges of parts of my treadle lathe and a bit more recently for edges of some hand carved signs. For this project, the stock and 2 bits made it easier to carve smooth edges and several runs of fluting.

photo of scratching the edge of a glass opening

Once I had glass in hand (yes it arrived, more below) the openings could be checked for proper size and the edges around the openings carved to shape. The shape is simple, a slight recess for a shadow line and a round over. I made a cutter and scratched the long straight stretches with the scratch stock. The straight stretches went surprisingly fast. Scratch stocks can create tear out across areas where grain is changing. So, I used a few curved carving gouges to work the top arches and curved bottom corners. I repeated for all three glass openings.

The door features 3 fluted columns on either side of the glass. They are about 1/4 inch wide and 1/8 inch deep. It’s a real good thing if they end up straight and evenly spaced. This is where scratch stock work excels. Having a good registration surface keeps the flutes straight. The group of pictures below shows the process.

  • photo of scratching a flute
  • photo of adjusting the scratch stock
  • photo of scratching the last of the flutes

Follow-up is very light sanding with paper wrapped around a dowel.

Glass – part 3

Yes, I have glass. After waiting months, I gave up on Mr. Holder and found a glass shop in Carlstadt NJ that took the order and delivered in 3 weeks. Accurate Glass and Mirror did fine work, exactly as I requested. Beautiful bevel on the door glass. I’m very satisfied with it. This would be a good place for a picture, but photographing glass is an elusive activity (not gonna show you the useless pictures I took).

Meanwhile, an acquaintance in a clock collectors group told me of another way to contact the unresponsive Mr. Holder, who still has an “F” rating at the Better Business Bureau and has upped the complaints count to 14. After several messages through a new path, he answered brusquely, advising me that (1) he “doesn’t do refunds” (2) everyone always get the promised glass (3) but not always on a schedule they like. The curtness of his message sounded like, “shut up, and wait … and don’t argue.”

Just for grins… If glass arrives from Mr. Holder, should I make another of these clocks? Anyone interested? Be forewarned, it’s not an inexpensive clock.

Gratitude – not having whatever problems leave Mr. Holder so angry.

Other articles in this series…

  • Regulator Clock – Done
  • Regulator Clock – Woodworking completed
  • Regulator Clock – Scratching the frames
  • Regulator Clock – Door Hinged
  • Regulator Clock – Case Dry Fitted
  • Regulator Clock – Jelly Side Down
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Glass – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 1
  • Regulator Clock – The Works work
  • Regulator Clock – Glass
  • Regulator Clock – Tongue & Groove planes
  • Regulator Clock – Completed Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Stick Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Plate Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Egg and Dart Moulding
  • Regulator Clock – Eat Dessert First
  • Regulator Clock – original description
  • Regulator Clock – Stock Prep
  • Regulator Clock – Plans for Moldings
  • Taming the Rabbet

Filed Under: Clocks, Woodcarving, Woodworking

Regulator Clock – Door Hinged

March 2, 2018 by Bob Easton Leave a Comment

There’s not a whole lot to say about installing hinges, other than these Brusso hinges are gorgeous. Their fine reputation is very well deserved. They are very nicely finished, pleasingly thick, all precisely the same size, and made in the U.S.A. They are also thoughtfully packaged with the screws in a plastic bag separate from the hinges to avoid scratching in transit. As for screws, they send a full set of brass screws and one stainless screw to use for setting up. My only complaint is that the brass screws have cross-point heads. I’m an traditionalist who wants slotted brass screws for hinges. Some are on order.

In the meantime, I’ve used stainless screws for the initial installation.

photo of Brusso hinges

Gratitude: beautiful hinges

Other articles in this series…

  • Regulator Clock – Done
  • Regulator Clock – Woodworking completed
  • Regulator Clock – Scratching the frames
  • Regulator Clock – Door Hinged
  • Regulator Clock – Case Dry Fitted
  • Regulator Clock – Jelly Side Down
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Glass – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 1
  • Regulator Clock – The Works work
  • Regulator Clock – Glass
  • Regulator Clock – Tongue & Groove planes
  • Regulator Clock – Completed Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Stick Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Plate Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Egg and Dart Moulding
  • Regulator Clock – Eat Dessert First
  • Regulator Clock – original description
  • Regulator Clock – Stock Prep
  • Regulator Clock – Plans for Moldings
  • Taming the Rabbet

Filed Under: Clocks, Woodworking

Regulator Clock – Case Dry Fitted

February 26, 2018 by Bob Easton 2 Comments

Slow, steady, and not too much is the current shop time formula. Yet “poco a poco” progress is sneaking along.

photo of case mortises and tenons

Case joinery for this clock is, to my mind, a bit weak. The side frames are connected by mortise and tenon to the top and bottom plates. That’s normal, but these tenons are on the minimal side. Yes, they measure up to the usual 1/3 of available stock dimensions, but when one looks at the weight involved, I’m skeptical that they are robust enough. The base weight of the case, the added moldings, the glass, and a very expensive brass mechanism seems a lot to hang on some 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch tenons, especially if one depends on glue alone.

These tenons result in nice snug, “self supporting” fits as long as “self” is one of the top or bottom plates alone. I’m adding two screws as insurance to each of the four joins.

The backboard fits nicely into rebates in the side frames and top and bottom plates. Three screws into each of the top and bottom plates are the main attachment of the back which supports that expensive brass mechanism. Two screws, one midway in each side, add additional support. Those side screws will be in elongated holes to allow for seasonal wood movement.

photo of dry fitted case

Here’s the dry fitted case with the door lying loosely in place. Next, fitting some very nice hinges. …

Gratitude: No major wood movement high jinks.

Other articles in this series…

  • Regulator Clock – Done
  • Regulator Clock – Woodworking completed
  • Regulator Clock – Scratching the frames
  • Regulator Clock – Door Hinged
  • Regulator Clock – Case Dry Fitted
  • Regulator Clock – Jelly Side Down
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Glass – 2
  • Regulator Clock – Case Frames – 1
  • Regulator Clock – The Works work
  • Regulator Clock – Glass
  • Regulator Clock – Tongue & Groove planes
  • Regulator Clock – Completed Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Stick Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Plate Mouldings
  • Regulator Clock – Egg and Dart Moulding
  • Regulator Clock – Eat Dessert First
  • Regulator Clock – original description
  • Regulator Clock – Stock Prep
  • Regulator Clock – Plans for Moldings
  • Taming the Rabbet

Filed Under: Clocks, Woodworking

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