The last phase of shaping the paddle is to remove everything that isn’t paddle shaped. Pare the loom, center handle, down to a round shape. Shape the oar portions, starting with nearly a diamond near the center, tapering evenly to thin softly arched tips. Knock off all the sharp edges so the entire length of the paddle will be easy on the hands.
Primary tools for this work are a simple ancient Stanley spoke shave and a collection of sharp steel card scrapers. (How to sharpen a scraper.)
Update July 31:
Same paddle tip after 4 coats of tung oil.
Sturdier tips. My earlier Greenland paddles have held up OK, with normal dents and dings. Yet, the tips have taken a beating. Evan suggested hardwood tips for this one. That’s what that darker lumber pictured in part 1 is for. It is one of the Mora family, several times heavier than cedar, hard and dense. My goal is to use a little bit at each tip, just enough for protection, not enough to be too heavy.
My foremost concern is how to keep the tips attached. Thin pieces don’t leave much opportunity for advanced joinery (T&G, biscuits, etc.) and end-grain to end-grain gluing is always a weak option. Let’s improve the amount of surface area for glue by using a substantial dovetail.
Next: attach the tips with high grade epoxy. And while the epoxy sets, clean the shop. Two partial paddles sit on the horses (one is a shorter “storm paddle”) while all the stuff that’s not paddle litters the floor. My habit is to let epoxy cure 20-24 hours no matter what it says on the container. Then, test by rough shaping with sharp tools. Knowing the tips won’t break off, I’ll get to the finish shaping the rest of the paddle shortly.